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Story by Sandra E. García and Debralee Santos
Photos by Sandra E. García
The music of La Fania All-Stars blaring from the speakers, the hiss of fresh shrimp on sizzling skillets straight from the kitchen, the peals of laughter, and the delicate clinks of crystal glasses filled to the brim with white or red sangria.
These were the sights and sounds on a recent evening during a V.I.P. premiere event complete with a red carpet, flashing camera bulbs, and filled with industry insiders.
And while the setting resembled an immaculately composed movie set, the setting was, in fact, the unveiling of a new restaurant, which debuted as a new culinary and event destination in Throggs Neck this past Thurs., Jan. 19th.
Babalu is named not just after the famous Desi Arnaz tune, but also after the now-closed restaurant in the Hell's Kitchen neighborhood of Manhattan once owned by Ralph Mercado Jr., legendary music producer and mogul.
His son, Ralph Mercado III, is a co-owner of this new destination.
Surrounded by warm laughter and embraces, Mercado snaked through the room, making sure he greeted and thanked everyone for showing up on his special night.
"I feel very excited and honored to be able to open this restaurant," said Mercado. "I'm ready to go, and [to] get the ball rolling and bring something very nice to the Bronx."
Mercado spent the majority of his childhood not only listening and two-stepping to salsa and merengue, but also peering up at his father Ralph Mercado Jr. while the elder Mercado managed famous acts like Tito Puente, Celia Cruz, Aretha Franklin and James Brown, and help jump-start the careers of Latin heavy hitters La India and Marc Anthony with the management company he started in 1987, the RMM Group.
"My father inspired me to mix Latin food and music. That was the theme of the original Babalu, and that is the theme here," said Mercado. "Great Latin food, and music that gets our culture and [gets] our blood going."
"There is nothing better than having a good time," laughed Mercado. "We aren't fancy dining, we're fun dining."
Babalu boasts a full "fun" menu from renowned Latin fusion chef Alex Garcia, of Cuban descent, who, together with chef Douglas Rodriguez, helped popularize Nuevo Latino cuisine throughout the country. Garcia is also the culinary star behind local restaurants such as Calle Ocho in Manhattan and the Bronx's Havana Café.
On opening night, Garcia was anxious to roll out the kitchen's full service.
"It's a great place to showcase not only my food, but all the food of Latin America," said Garcia, who kept a watchful eye on the kitchen service while chatting with well-wishers. "We have a great menu with food from all over," he added.
The menu does offer quite a Latin American sojourn, offering fare as varied as Ecuadorian yapingacho, savory potato and chorizo dumplings, and tamales, as well as sorullos, Puerto Rican sweet corn fritters.
There are traditional Spanish paellas, a la Valenciana, as well as new renderings of the rice dish that include wild mushrooms and a sweet pea vinaigrette. And there are freshly grilled dinner entrees that include pork loin, red snapper and shrimp.
The soundtrack to the feast, as you would expect from a restaurant that unambiguously declares "Where Latin Food and Music Dance Together," is exceptional.
As they feasted on passed savory hors d'oeuvres and enjoyed the copious sangria, Babalu's partygoers could not help but dance in place to the infectious Latin music.
"This is a very nice place, very classy, very well put together," said DJ and salsa music promoter Alejandro Bouza. "This place has a very good feel to it. I appreciate the Latin feel to the restaurant."
The décor is spacious and modern, with warm, ambient lighting and vivid touches of color. Multiple television screens adorn the bar area, and on this evening, they played videos from the Live in Africa concert that featured a hip-shaking Shakira.
"I love it! I think it's gorgeous," said Jodi Padilla, daughter of co-owner William Padilla.
"The place is grown and mature like it should be. It's a good crowd and a great vibe."
Others agreed.
"This is my kind of thing, my kind of place," said Chyna Cruz, who raised her martini glass in an exultant toast. "This is the place for Latin people to get together to eat well and dance."
Babalu Restaurant
3233 East Tremont Avenue (btwn Waterbury and Whittemore Avenues)
The Bronx, NY 10461
718 824 8400
babalubx.com
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