Bobby Fish has been selling his trademark ceviche, the seafood dish in which raw, fresh seafood is marinated in citric juice, from his van on West 207th Street and Tenth Avenue for over 39 years. “I feel love from people,” Bobby says about the loyal customers who have continued to return to his roadside raw bar for so many decades.
Story and photos by Sherry Mazzocchi
Being this close to the water in northern Manhattan might make any lover of seafood cast a longing glance at the shoreline.
But forget throwing a fishing line at the inlet at Inwood Hill Park, or at Dyckman Marina.
Locals know the best fresh seafood in the city is sold at a truck stand on the corner of West 207th Street and 10th Avenue.
“My son told me [they] look like a dolphin,” says Bobby Fish, pointing to a nearby handmade sign meant to be sharks eating fresh seafood. Yes, he claims his real last name is Fish.
Bobby Fish has been a roadside raw bar just a few hundred yards from the University Heights Bridge for the past 39 years. His weathered and slightly dented maroon van bears the age handsomely, with colorful handmade signs proclaiming “Bobby Fish Del Rey Ceviche.”
Inside the van is his claim to fame: the ceviche. The van is filled with deep coolers packed deep with ice and neat, plastic containers of raw fish marinating in a blend of citrus juices, chopped tomatoes, onions and spices. Bobby offers varieties of shrimp, lobster, conch, red snapper, octopus, oysters and clams.
His bestselling ceviche, Los Siete Poderes, or the Seven Powers, combines all.
The ceviche, shown here, is a seafood delicacy in which fresh seafood is marinated in a blend of citrus juices, chopped tomatoes, onions and spices. Bobby offers varieties of shrimp, lobster, conch, red snapper, octopus, oysters and clams.
And come September, if all goes as expected, Bobby Fish’s loyal customers will soon have even another option: Bobby Fish is planning on opening a restaurant on 203rd and Tenth Avenue.
Bobby said that the new restaurant and club will seat hundreds of people. “We’re going to call it ‘The New Bobby Fish,’” he said. “But with the same old prices.”
The menu will feature his famous ceviche as well as other fish dishes with vegetables and rice and beans.
But loyal customers of the red van needn’t worry.
The van is staying put. Bobby said inspiration from above urged him to start his own business. “God told me to put the truck here and sell fish,” he said.
Today, Bobby’s van is parked next to a big gleaming white Hess gas station and across the street from a Pathmark Supermarket. But back in the early 1970’s, that spot was filled with trash and smoldering stolen cars that had been set on fire. His wife told him he was crazy.
She said he was doing fine at the deli he had near Battery Park. Bobby, originally from Puerto Rico, had 14 children to support with only a third grade education.
But the voice was persistent. He got a peddler’s license. He swept the lot everyday and cleared away most of the debris himself. The first few years of business were rough.
Police officers insisted he moved on. People threatened him with knives. Once—on a Good Friday—someone stole $700 worth of fish from him. “But God always gave me the strength to keep going,” he said.
Every day he had to earn enough to buy at least two gallons of milk, four loaves of bread and a lot of other groceries to feed his family. He worked seven days a week, keeping his stand open 12 hours a day.
Now people come from all over to buy his citrusy ceviche. Returning customers –some as far away as Massachusetts and Florida – constantly pull over. And instead of arguing with him, police buy lunch. The local 34th precinct asks him to prepare specialties for police events. Even if they do not pull over, people wave, honk and yell, “Hi Bobby!” from their cars.
“I feel love from people,” Bobby said.
Friends say that’s because of the love he gives back to the community. One of his closest friends and long-time customer, Barbarin Sanchez, said that Bobby has had a powerful impact on the neighborhood.
“Bobby is very generous,” Sanchez said. “He feeds homeless people and people who can’t afford to pay.” He also employs people who are new to the community and need help getting established.
“Throughout the years, a lot of people have benefitted from this business,” Sanchez said.
Antonio Camacho, originally from the Dominican Republic, has worked for Bobby for about a year. “Bobby is very charismatic,” he said. “He has a good relationship with his customers. They trust him and that’s why they come back.”
Bobby, now 60, first learned about ceviche in his youth when visiting the Mexican shores of Puerto Vallarta. The tasty treat was prepared and sold on the beach. When he asked the sellers how it was made, something clicked. He knew he could make it himself and improve on the flavor.
Bobby’s customers also love the medium hot sauce sprinkled on the fish. He said it’s his grandfather’s recipe.
Chefs and customers have offered substantial sums for his ceviche recipes and the hot sauce ingredients. Bobby has declined all offers.
You can’t buy the real secret ingredient, he said, because it’s love. His love.
Find out for yourself, head to 207th and Tenth Avenue, and look for El Rey [The King].
