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text and photos by Claudio E. Cabrera
When you enter Papasito Mexican Grill & Agave Bar on Dyckman Street, you feel like you’ve been immediately transported to a restaurant on South Beach; especially in the summer with the open-air seating and Dyckman Street, pregnant with energy, surrounding you.
Papasito has the look of an old, western Mexican restaurant with its smoked wood, dim lighting, and Mariachi bands. Here, you’re on a ride to a place that feels authentically Mexican, with a dose of the local Dominican flavor of the neighborhood.
The establishment, which opened earlier this summer, replaced a popular local deli that was bought out by Papasito's owners. The restaurant has been close to a year in the making, and opened to a buzz unlike any other in the neighborhood’s history this past July. But while the opening was grandiose, it wasn’t necessarily welcomed by many.
Once local residents found out about the plans for another restaurant on Dyckman Street, they stood in strong opposition with Community Board 12 to prevent Papasito from acquiring a liquor and sidewalk seating license. These issues were brought to the forefront because of the growing number of restaurants on the street, and the noise complaints made by many in the area which helped make Inwood the noisiest neighborhood in the city.
On the night of its opening, Lamborghinis, Porsches and a red carpet were outside the restaurant with Latino television personalities and actors. It was an event of epic proportions which had local residents taking out their digital cameras and phones to snap pictures of the scene.
Today, upon entering Papasito, you are greeted by a hostess in a narrow hallway and led to your table. While many thought the restaurant to be larger during its construction, it is fairly small as the rounded bar consumes much of the restaurant’s space. Many of the tables, both on the inside and the outside, appear close to each other; and with the loud music that's played, it can be somewhat difficult to carry a conversation without having to repeat yourself.
The servers, all dressed in guayabera shirts, exhibit the fast-paced environment they work in, and provide you with recommendations once they reach your table. Whether it’s the “knock-you-out” quality of their burrito “Plato Fuerte” ($18) or the paradise one of their famous “Mango Mojitos” ($10) can take you to, they make you feel informed as a diner.
The tacos ($12), come in five different flavors with shrimp and chicken leading the way, and one of the most popular, the “Platos fuertes,” – skirt steak and mashed potatoes – comes in a drenched brown sauce for $18.
But one of the most, if not the most, popular part of the Papasito experience are the drinks; and the magic their mixologists perform with the libations.
Whether it’s the mojitos ($10), which hit your tongue with a sharp, sweet taste, or the Rio Grande specialty drink – infused with premium vodka, strawberry and aloe vera – you are sure to leave the restaurant with a buzz reminiscent of Papasito’s opening night.
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